Method of making a boot or shoe



METHOD OF MAKING A BOOT OR SHOE Filed Jan. 11, 1933 s Sheets-Sheet 1Sept. 1, 1936.

C. H. DANIELS METHOD OF MAKING A BOOT OR SHOE Filed Jan. 11, 1933 3Shets-Sheet 2 Sept. 1, 1936. c DAMELS 2,052,753

' METHOD OF MAKING A BOOT OR SHOE Filed Jan. 11,- 1933 3 Sheets-Sheet 3ziimlimz Sept. 1, i936 METHOD OF -2 a; r A BOOT 0R SHOE illaude H.Daniels, Newton Center, Mass.

Application January 11, 1933, Serial No. 651,176.

4 Claims.

My present invention relates to boots and shoes, and also includes anovel method of manufacturing the same.

An important object of the present invention resides in the provision ofa boot or shoe having an openwork quarter, and having also an openworkcounter, in which the openings in the counter, or at least some of them,are in alinement, or partial alinement, with the openings in the quartersection.

Also combined with this openwork quarter and openwork counter may be anopenwork lining, a further provision of the invention being that theopenings in the lining, or at least some of them, shall be in alinementor partial alinement with openings in the counterand quarter, so thatven-. tilation may be had completely through the shoe at that portionoccupied by the counter, a feature which has not been heretoforepossible in shoes in which a counter has been incorporated. Saidopenwork counter, although perforated, still maintains its rigidity andstrength to fully perform all its functions.

The quarter and counter, or quarter, counter and lining, may beassembled, either adhesively united or not, and the openings formedtherein simultaneously, whereupon they may be assembled either as aunit, with the perforations or openings in alinement, or they may be soas-' sembled that the openings will not be in exact registry, but atleast some of the openings in each layer will be in register withopenings in an adjacent layer or layers.

In the event that the counter and other elements are'punchedsimultaneously, this will be preferably accomplished with the layers inflat formation, subsequent to which the counter, or counter and combinedelements, will be shaped to substantially foot contour.

Another important feature of my invention, therefore, resides in theprovision of an openwork counter or heelstiffener, as an article ofmanufacture, as will be readily appreciated by those skilled in thisart.

I may, if desired, utilize an openwork lining and openwork quarter asabove defined, in combination with a solid or imperforate counter, andin this event the openings in the lining and quarter, outside of thearea covered by. said counter, will afford ventilation, and furthermore,if the counter is not adhered to the lining and quarter, will permit thepassage of air therearound. In this latter phase of my invention, theexposed surface of the counter, visible through the openings in thequarter, will preferably be of the same color as ,tion resides in theprovisio the outside surface of the quarter, or of a color to harmonizetherewith.

Another feature of my invention resides in the provision of an openworkquarter and openwork lining, either perforated simultaneously or sep- 5arately, and so united and assembled that at least some of the openingsin each layer will be in alinement or partial alinement with openings inthe other layer.

A further, and important feature of my inven- 10 of novel paneling forthose shoes in which the quarter and lining are perforated overboard, orto and including their edges. This results in the presence of a rough oruneven edge, diflicult to stitch and with 15 other disadvantages. Inthis event, I apply to the quarter lining, a panel projecting beyond thesaid .rough edge, and apply to the quarter a panel projecting beyond thesaid rough edge of the quarter. These layers are then assembled and 20united by top stitching through and through the panels beyond the edgesof said quarter and lin- Of course, if the lining and quarter areadhered, and perforated as a unit, the panels will 25 be united to thesame by stitching extending completely through both panels and the saidlining and quarter, as well as stitching extending through the panels ata point beyond the edges of said layers. 7

A further novel feature 'of my invention resides in the provision of aboot or shoe, composed of openwork materials throughout its entireupper, with the lining and outer upper sections preferably free ofattachment except at their marginal edges. This feature may, of course,be carried out through as great a portion of the shoe as desired.

Also, when using an openwork counter, said counter may be free ofattachment, either to the lining or to the quarter, except at the uppermarginal edges of said counter, or it may be cemented or adhered in anydesirable or suitable manner.

My invention may be carried out with substantially all kinds of shoeupper materials, including leather or any substitute therefor.

Another object of my invention resides in the fact that in those typesof shoes where the. openings in the counter, lining, or both, are onlypartially alined with openings in the quarter, the exposed surfaces ofsaid counter or lining, or both, visible through the openings in thequarter, will be either of the same color-as the outside surface of thequarter, or of a color to harmonize there- 55 with, so that the beautyand attractiveness of my novel shoes Will be greatly enhanced.

- A further feature of my invention resides in constructing the outerupper sections, either at the toe tip, foxing, or the like, ofcontrasting colors, with the adjacent edges either butted or lapped, andoverlaid at the jointure thereof with a reinforcing strip, either plain,perforated or an openwork quarterand lining,without counter,

colored, which reinforcing strip may be cemented or stitched inposition, as desired. 1

In this event, the parts carrying the contrast- :ing colors may bepunched or perforated either individually, or may be joined and thenperforated simultaneously, subsequent to which the reinforcing stripwill be applied in the manner aforesaid.

Another object of my invention resides in the provision, in combinationwith an openwork quarter, or quarter and lining, of a counter pocket,either perforated or imperforate, in which is positioned or inserted acounter, either perforated or imperforate, the counter pocket beingstitched along its upper marginal edges either to the quarter lining orthe inside of the quarter.

In that type of shoe wherein an openwork quarter and openwork counter isutilized, with no lining, the inner surface of the said counter willpreferably be of a color to harmonize with the remainder of the interiorof the shoe.

Other objects and features of my invention reside in the particularconstruction andarrangement of my novel shoes, and the various steps ofmanufacture thereof, and all of the above, together with other objectsand features of the invention, advantages, combinations of parts, anddetails of construction, will be hereinafter more fully pointed out,described, and

claimed.

I- believe that the boots or shoes above described, in all their phases,are novel, and have .therefore claimed the same broadly herein;

I also believe that the above described steps of manufacture are novel,and have therefore claimed said steps as a process in this application.

I furthermore believe that the openwork or perforated counter, as anarticle of manufacture, is novel, and said counter is likewise claimedin this application.

Referring to the drawings, illustrating preferred embodiments of myinvention,

Fig. l is a perspective view of a shoe in which my invention of openworkquarter, openwork lining and openwork counter, perforated as a unit andassembled with all openings in register, is illustrated;

Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; I I

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the component layers in assembled and adheredcondition before perforating;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary side elevation illustrating a pressure diefirmly uniting said three layers;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view illustrating the step ofsimultaneously perforating the three layers comprising counter, quarterand lining, although it will be appreciated that this step may beperformed whether or not said layers are adheslvely united;

' Fig. 6 is a top plan view illustrating the parts shaped tosubstantially foot contour;

Fig. 7 is a partial side elevation illustrating the quarter, lining andcounter assembled with the openings in partial register;

Figs. 8 and 9 are sectional details illustrating the paneling of thequarter and lining;

Fig. 10 is'a perspective view of the perforated counter as a separateunit;

Fig. '11 is a cross-sectional view illustrating the assembly of anopenwork quarter and counter, without lining;

Fig. 12 is a partial side elevation illustrating with the openings inpartial alinement;

Fig. 13 is a cross-sectional view on the line |3-.-l3 of Fig. 12;,

Fig. 14 is a cross-sectional view illustrating a modification utilizingopenwork quarter, openwork counter, and openwork counter pocketformingpiece;

Fig. 15 is a partial side elevation illustrating an openwork quarter andopenwork quarter lining, with an imperforate counter; t

Fig. 16 is a cross-sectional view on the line l6|6 of Fig. 15;

Fig. 17 1s a cross-sectional view illustrating the use of a solidcounter and solid counter pocketforming piece;

v Fig. 18 is a cross-sectional view on the line' l8--I8 of Fig. 22,illustrating the embodiment of my invention in the toe portion of ashoe;

Fig. 19 is a partial perspective view of the heel portion of a shoeillustrating the use of multicolored quarter and foxing;

Fig. 20 is a. cross-sectional view on the line 20-20 of Fig. 19;

Fig. 21 is a partial perspective view, partly in section, illustratinglapped sections for simultaneous perforation; and

Fig. 22 is a partial perspective view of the toe portion of a shoeillustrating multi-colored vamp sembled in fiat formation, asillustrated in Fig. 3,

and are then subjected to a pressure operation,

as between the two presser members 5, in Fig. 4,

which members may be heated or not, as desired. This'pressure operationwill firmly and integrally unite the layers 9, 2 and 3 as will bereadily apparent.

Subsequent to the pressure operation, I then subject the united layersto a perforating operation, the die 6 operating in conjunction with ananvil I to perforate a mass of apertures, perforations or openings 8completely through the united materials, including the counter layer 3.As

clearly illustrated in Fig. 1, this mass of perforations extends overthe entire area of the quarter, even to the edges thereof.

Thereafter, the united and perforated unit comprising the quarter,lining and counter are shaped in any suitable or desirable manner tosubstantially foot contour as illustrated in Fig. 6. Thereafter thecomplete upper materials are assembled, lasted'and the shoe completed,paneling strips 9 being-applied as illustrated in Fig. 2, and united tothe quarter and lining by through and. through stitching I0 and by topstitching ll, These panels efiectually cover and conceal the roughmarginal edges left by the mass perforations, as will be readilyunderstood It will be appreciated that, in place of cementing andsimultaneously perforating the three layers, as above described, thesemay be simultaneously perforated without cementing, or may be perforatedindividually. Thereafter, the three layers, quarter, lining and counterare assembled, and the perforations 8, or at least some of them. will bein partial register or alinement with the perforations in an adjacentlayer or layers.

In this latter event, it is desirable that the exposed surfaces of thelining 2, and counter 3, should be of the same color as the color of theoutside surface of the quarter l, or at least of a color to harmonizetherewith. In Fig. 7 I have illustrated the same as being of the samecolor,

for clarity, and it will be readily appreciated, from a glance at Fig.7, that this color scheme will be carried out on those portions of theunderlaid layers that are visible through the openings 8 in the quarteri.

In paneling the quarter and lining of the shoe of Fig. 7, the layers 9,2 and 3 not being adhesively united, I first secure a panel l2 to thelining 2 by a. row of stitching l3, and apply a panel l lto the quarterl by stitching it. Thereafter, when the three layers 8, 2 and 3 areassembled, the panels 52 and it are united by top stitching it, asillustrated in Fig. 8. It will be understood that these panels projectbeyond the rough edges of the quarter and lining, and efiectually coverand conceal said edges-as well as providing a firm hold for the topstitching iii. In Fig. 10 I have illustrated the counter 2 whenperforated and shaped without adhesion to the quarter or lining, as aseparate article of manufacture, and in this Figure 10 the rough edge itis clearly illustrated, caused by the overboard mass perforating of saidcounter, this same feature being present in the lining and quarter. Asillustrated in Fig. 10, substantially one-quarter of the counter isopened by perforations 6.

In either of the forms of shoes thus far briefly described, wherein theopenworl: counter is utilized, full ventilation of the shoe at thisimportant point is obtained, the counter 3 retaining substantially itsfull strength and rigidity and capacity for performing all of itsimportant functions.

In Fig. 11 I have illustrated a slight modification, wherein the quarteri and counter 3 are assembled and united by stitching it around theupper marginal edges of said counter, without any quarter lining. Insome types of shoes the lining will not be essential, and my feature ofventilation through the counter may be carried out in these types ofshoes with equal facility. In order that the' appearance of the shoethus constructed may not be impaired, the inner surface of the counter 3would preferably be of the same color as the remainder of the interiorof the shoe, or of a color or shade to harmonize therewith.

In Figs. 12 and 13 I have illustrated another form wherein the counteris omitted, the lining 2 and quarter i being provided with openings 8,which may be either in alinement or partial alinement as shown. In thisform of the invention the harmonized color scheme would also bepreferably carried out. The paneling l2 and I4 is applied in the samemanner as heretofore described.

In Fig. 14 is illustrated a modification wherein a perforated counterpocket l8q. is fixed to the insideof the quarter l by a row of stitchingl9, and a counter (i is inserted therebetween, as clearly shown. Thepaneling 28 is united to the pocket I80. and quarter I by through andthrough stitching ill and top stitching 22.

In Figs. 15 and 16 I have illustrated the perforated quarter l,perforated quarter lining 2. and an imperforate counter 23, colored toharmonize with the quarter lining, as aforesaid, and still providing forventilation, particularly where no adhesion between counter and liningor quarter is utilized.

In Fig. 17 I have illustrated the utilization of a perforated quarter I,an imperforate counter pocket 23, and imperforate counter 25, thecounter pocket 26 being united to the inside of the quarter l bystitching 23 and the paneling 21 being united to the pocket and quarterby through and through stitching 28 and top stitching 29.

In Fig. 18 I have illustrated the carrying out of the second phase of myinvention with respect to the toe stiffener and toe portion of my novelshoe. In this instance the toe stiffener 343 is provided withperforations all to cooperate with the openings 32 in the toe tip 33 andthe openings 3d in the lining 35 in the same manner as heretoforedescribed, either in alinement or partial alinement, and with theadvantages as above pointed out for the openwork counter and heel Aportion of the shoe.

In Figs. 19 to 22 is illustrated that phase of my invention whichincludes a multi-part outer upper section of contrasting colors. Forexample, in Fig. 19 a quarter 36, of one color, is assembled with aforking 3? of another or contrasting color. These two parts may bebutted or lapped, as shown in Fig. 21, and may be first joined and thensimultaneously perforated, or may be perforated and then joined. Afterjoining, the union between the two parts is preferably covered andconcealed by a reinforcing strip 38, which may be imperforate, asillustrated in Fig. 19, and cemented to the two parts, or may beperforate as illustrated by the strip 39 in Fig. 22 and attached bystitching it to the two parts.

In Fig. 22 it is the toe tip 33 and vamp All which are or contrastingcolors and perforated, instead of the quarter 36 and foxing 3'0 of 19.

It will thus be appreciated that many beautiful and harmonious colorschemes and effects may be carried out with'my invention. greatlyenhancing the range of styles and designs possible in shoe manufacture.

It will be understood and appreciated that the colors shown in thedrawings of this application are for illustrative purposes only, andthat I am in no way limited to any particular colors or combinations ofcolors, this being left to discretion and personal taste.

It will be appreciated that I have necessarily described my presentinvention somewhat in detail in this application, but that I am notlimited to the specific showings or descriptions thereof, but may varythe size, shape, arrangement of parts, designs and the like, within wideranges without departing from the spirit of the invention, and that thefeatures illustrated and described herein may be applied to any part orparts of a shoe, or throughout as great an area or surface of a shoe asmay be desired.

It will also be apparent that the perforations shown herein are merelyfor illustrative purposes, and that any size, shape or arrangement ofperforations, apertures or openings is equally within the scope of myinvention. It will also be appreciated and understood by those skilledin this art that the various phases of my invention are simple ofadaptation, :and present no difficulties in the processes of shoe,manufacture.

A preferred and inexpensive method of producing the counter illustratedin Fig. 10, is to perforate, in sheet form, the material from which saidcounter is formed, and thereafter to die' out the counters from saidsheet, said died-out counters being provided with the desiredperforations, as clearly shown in Fig. 10. Thereafter, the individualcounters are skived, or molded, in the customary manner.

My invention is further described and defined in the form of claims asfollows:

1. The improved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps ofassembling a twopart outer upper section of contrasting colors, with thesurfaces of both parts on the same plane, simultaneouslyv perforating aplurality of apertures through each of said parts, and thereafterapplying an openwork reinforcing strip over said two parts at the unionthereof in such relation to the apertures in said outerhupper section atsaidvunion that at least some of the apertures in said upper sectionwill be alined with the apertures in said reinforcing strip.

2. The improved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps ofassembling a two part outer upper section of contrasting colors,

adhesively uniting said outer upper section to a lining, and maintainingthe surface of the outer upper section in a substantially continuousplane, simultaneously perforating a plurality of apertures through eachof said parts and lining as a unit, and thereafter applying a narrowreinforcing strip over the two parts of said outer upper section at theunion thereof.

} 3. The improved process of shoe manufacture which comprises supplyinga shoe upper in which the quarter and quarter lining have hadperforations cut through them in close formation in the counter area,then inserting between said quarter and lining a,counter through whichperforations have been out in close formation over substantially itsentire area, then assembling the combination of upper and counter on tothe last, then lasting and completing the shoe in any suitable manner.

4. The improved process of shoe manufacture 20 which comprises supplyinga shoe upper in which the quarters have had perforations cut throughthem in close formation in the counter area and in which the quarterlining has openings in close formation in the counter area, then 25inserting between said quarters and lining a counter through whichperforations have been cut in close formation over substantially itsentire-area, then assembling the combination of upper and counter on tothe last, then lasting 30 and completing the shoe in any suitablemanner.

CLAUDE H. DANIELS.

